ByWard Market District

ByWard Market has been the stomach of Ottawa since 1826, making it one of the oldest public markets in Canada. Lieutenant Colonel John By — the same engineer who built the Rideau Canal — established it as a farmer's market, and nearly two centuries later, the original Market Building still anchors the district at the corner of ByWard and George streets. What's grown around it is a dense, walkable neighbourhood of over 175 vendor stalls, independent restaurants, late-night bars, galleries, and a street energy that feels distinctly un-Ottawa.

The outdoor farmer's market runs daily from May through October, and the stalls sell everything from Gatineau Hills maple syrup to artisanal cheeses, fresh Ontario produce, and flowers by the armful. Inside the Market Building, permanent vendors offer specialty meats, baked goods, and Ottawa's most dangerous selection of pastries and chocolates. Year-round, the surrounding blocks house restaurants at every price point.

Ottawa's shawarma culture is real and fierce, and the ByWard Market is its epicentre. The city has more shawarma restaurants per capita than any other in Canada, and the market's strip — particularly along Dalhousie and Rideau — features the heaviest concentration. Shawarma Palace, 3 Brothers, and Castle are all within a two-block walk of each other, and arguing about which is best is an Ottawa pastime. A large plate with garlic potatoes and turnip pickles runs $12-16.

BeaverTails — the elongated fried dough pastry — originated in the Ottawa area, and the original stand operates right in the market. Killaloe Sunrise (cinnamon sugar and lemon) is the classic order, though the Avalanche (chocolate, peanut butter, Reese's Pieces) has a dedicated following.

The market transitions into nightlife after dark. York Street and Clarence Street host most of the bars and clubs, and the area gets lively Thursday through Saturday. By day, George Street has a more artisan feel — boutiques, galleries, the Métis-owned shop Anduhyaun, and the small but fascinating Haunted Walk tour office (Ottawa's ghost tour company, highly rated).

One practical warning: the market area is Ottawa's panhandling centre. It's safe — Ottawa's violent crime rate is low — but the visible homelessness in the area may catch visitors off guard.